Spicules - the skincare breakthrough of 2024

What are spicules?

Spiked, often called microneedles, are the tiny mineral particles that form the skeleton of marine and freshwater molluscs. They are a natural source of calcium and silica. Spicules are often sharply pointed, which is why they are compared to microfossils.

Specially purified white spicules with a length of 120-250 μm and a diameter of 7-15 μm are used in cosmetic products. They are incorporated into the textures of gels and creams, where they settle to the bottom. In the list of ingredients they may appear under the names of Hydrolyzed Sponge or Silica and their concentrations in cosmetic products usually range from 0.1 to 3%.

How do spicules work?

Spicules help to transport active ingredients to the deeper layers of the skin. Thanks to their porous structure, they are able to bind large quantities of fat-soluble active ingredients and release them gradually in the epidermis. The skin's protective barrier, which prevents the entry of harmful substances, often also prevents the absorption of beneficial substances.

Spicules act like microscopic needles, creating microchannels in the skin's hydrolipidic mantle and stratum corneum. This greatly increases the bioavailability of active ingredients such as acids, retinol and regenerating complexes. Studies show that spiked products can improve the absorption of active ingredients up to 33 times compared to non-spiked products.

Spicules release active ingredients gradually, maintaining their concentration in the skin for up to 72 hours, after which the mineral structures dissolve and are removed by the natural skin renewal process. This allows the desired results to be achieved without irritation or discomfort, making spiked care an atraumatic alternative to mesoroller.

Additional effects of spiculite:

Improve microcirculation.
Stimulate skin cell division.
They stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin to regenerate the skin after microtrauma.

VT Cosmetics and products containing spicules:

VT Cosmetics uses spiked technology in its products such as. ReedleShot series serums, which include patented kits:

CicaReedle™: spicules (15 μm) with an Asian aqueous extract and a plant complex.
CicaHyalon™: four Asian hydrocarbon derivatives, green horsetail and four low molecular weight hyaluronic acids.

The ReedleShot range includes:

Mild Reedle Shot 50: for daily use in the morning and evening.
Reedle Shot 100: for daily evening care.
Reedle Shot 300: for use three times a week.
Reedle Shot 500: once a week for intensive exfoliation.

Important maintenance recommendations:

Use serums as a first step after cleansing to maximise the effect of the active ingredients.
Do not combine products containing spicules with exfoliants, retinoids or acids in the same routine.
For more sensitive skin, start with a lighter product such as Mild Reedle Shot 50 and gradually increase the frequency of use.
Do not use products with higher intensities (300 and above) after dermatological procedures that may damage the stratum corneum.